Quba visit

As usual, I'm running about a week behind with my posts and the actual event.  Last weekend I took my first solo trip out to a rayon (region).  My trip was a short distance, 180km a 2 1/2 hour bus ride from the Baku Avtovagzal (bus station)  The Avtovagzal is designed to look like the Titanic. Local buses and some marshruks to the regions depart from the lower level. The "bigger" buses depart from the upper level. There is also a two store outlet mall at the avtovagzal.  Below is a picture of the part of the upper level with the lower level in the background.  The bus station is incredibly busy with local buses departing every couple of minutes.

 My bus to Quba was one of the smaller buses, with "jump" seats in the aisle.  There is a bench seat in the back and two seats up with the driver.  These are primarily for men only and should be rejected by women. The bus driver will try to rearrange the seats so that women are not uncomfortable. The rest of the bus is two seats and one seat.  Once they are filled up, the aisle seats are filled from back to front.  On the way to Quba, I got the last regular seat, however it was over the wheel well and I sat for the entire trip with my bag on my lap and my knees towards my chest.  Most uncomfortable, especially since the padding on the seats is not exactly cushy.

 

The trip to Quba follows the coast north for the first part and then for the last hour heads west towards the mountains.  Quba is known for apples and the region is much greener and a little cooler than Baku.

 

I stayed with another PCV who works with a carpet factory that is all women (a token male, who is related and the driver). There are two rooms with looms and I was able to see women making carpets.  It is incredibly labor intensive, but beautiful to watch.  The factory primarily makes carpets to order. The director sits down with clients to discuss the type, color and design of the carpet. The designs are traditional as part of the mission of the factory is to preserve the designs.The design dictates the sizes that are possible.  Also, while you may order specific colors; the carpet may change as it reveals itself. We had tea in the factory's garden before moving on to our next destination, another PCV's home.

 

Hospitality is incredible in Azerbaijan.  When we arrived and had settled in for the visit, we were served tea and sweets.  Then dinner and capped the visit off with dondurma (ice cream). Ice cream is difficult to find outside the warmer months, so the PCVs look forward to when ice cream becomes available as an end of the cold.  During our visit a couple, who were relatives, stopped by for shots.  Yes, I mean injections.  Like Americans pop pills, the preferred method of delivery of medication appears to be shots.  So, just after tea and before the table was cleared, out came the stuff to get the three injections prepared. Thank goodness they were delivered in a bedroom and we didn't have to watch.  This is all treated with a casual routine that is very matter-of-fact, which makes is all the more interesting.  I hope this doesn't catch on in the states.

 

The next day, we woke up and I got to go to Qirmizi Qesebe the "big red village"  It is reached by a pedestrian bridge(see below)  and is across a river from Quba.  In guide books it is described as the only all-Jewish town outside of Israel and some believe that the inhabitants are direct descendants of one of the "lost tribes".

 

After walking through the village, I grabbed my bags and started my journey back home.  This time, I got a more comfortable seat.  Also the bus was newer and air conditioned.  I really scored. After letting the driver know that I wanted to get off before the Avtovagzel, with help from my fellow passengers. I got off and walked the fifteen minutes home.  The buses will pretty much stop anywhere on their routes, including the side of the freeway.  This is a little odd, but incredibly helpful.

A street in the red village.  Looks very similar to those in Quba, but many have the Star of David instead of the Crescent Star. 

Next weekend, a trip to Mingachevir where there is a large reservoir. I've been told to bring my swimsuit.  This is a longer trip, but I will have company.

Patti

P.S. Azerbaijan words are not necessarily spelled correctly.  There are several letters that I should insert as symbols, but I'm a little lazy.