Strega Nonas

My mother used to send my children Christmas books as Christmas.  We used to read one Christmas book each night in December.  One of our favorites was Merry Christmas, Strega Nona.

I recently visited friends in Lankaran, a region to the south bordering Iran.  As part of that visit, we went to "isti su", hot baths.  To get to "isti su" you go out of the city center of Lankaran and then it is a 30 minute walk into the hillside.  There are several huts with baths.  You chose which hut by the temperature of the bath.  After our bath, we walked back down the hill.  It is lightly forested and you pass cows heading home. Much to my delight as we were walking we spotted two women walking up the hill. They were dressed in many colored layers, tights, socks, skirt, apron, long sleeved shirts, knitted vests and scarfs.  Resting on their shoulders were axes.  Just like Strega Nona as she went to get the Christmas tree to make Christmas.  Two real life Strega Nonas.  As we passed, we said Salam and got wonderful greetings back and beautiful smiles.

I didn't get a picture, but the memory is so vivid and wonderful.

We all need the magic of Strega Nona and I am so blessed to have found "my" Strega Nonas in Azerbaijan.

Complacency

A short story of complacency and how it will bite you in the butt most every time

I have been at site for seven months and in my house for three.  I know how reliable utilities are.  As my former site mate used to say; “a day with two out of three is a good day” I had a headache on Tuesday, so didn’t go into work and slept until late afternoon.  Got up and didn’t have water.  Ok, I thought, I have a bucket of water in the bathroom, the teapot is half full, I have a pitcher of filtered water in the fridge and a large bottle of boiled water. Unfortunately I did not get water at any appreciable level back that night.  Wednesday morning, still no water but I had enough for a cup of coffee.  Surely, I thought I’ll have water tonight when I get home.  Alas, no water. I checked with my landlord and was able to fill my teapot from the hot water tank. The bucket in the bathroom was getting low.  Had no idea why we had no water.  Thursday morning – still no water.  Still enough for a cup of coffee. Thursday evening – still no water. Refilled the teapot.  Went to language lessons with my host sister.  Finally found out what was going on.  They are fixing a main water pipe and shutting off the water in the morning till evening.  I get up around 8:30 after the water is turned off. It is turned back on sometime between 7:30 and 9:00 but the pressure is low.  The sink in my house already has low pressure so it didn’t appear that I had water even if I did.  I had a little better flow from one of the spigots in my bathroom, but it was also quite weak compared to normal.  Tonight water came back at 7:00.  I immediately filled all buckets in the bathroom.  Refilled all my drinking water containers and washed my dishes.  With the low water pressure, these tasks took about 45 minutes.  I have it on good authority that it is unknown when the pipe will be fixed. 

While the morale of this store is to keep my water supplies filled, it is likely I will get complacent again and get bitten in the butt once again.

A time of reflection

 

Just over two hours left of 2013 and I have spent a good portion of my day reflecting on 2013 and thinking about the upcoming year.

2013 was a year of change.  I started the year in a studio apartment.  I rang the New Year in with my New Year group, only this year we stood on the rooftop deck of my apartment building watching the fireworks at the Space Needle, instead of watching them on TV.  No music, but the show and the small fireworks shows all around were a delight.

I spent the first five weeks of the year, disposing of most of my possessions.  Storing the items I couldn’t part with in half of a small storage unit.  Patted the heads of Emily and Sydney goodbye and off they went to temporary housing for the next two years, plus a couple of months.  I said goodbye to family and good friends.  My job of 18 years ended.  I boarded a train out of town for three weeks of train travel.

I crossed the country by train, leaving my home of 30 years.  My trip began with about an hour traveling on the edge of Puget Sound at dusk.  What a magnificent send off.  Visits to Chicago, New York, Boston, Philly and Washington DC before spending a month with my family in Michigan.

In early April, my sister dropped me off at the Detroit airport for the first leg of my Peace Corps adventure. The smooth dropping off interrupted by having to lose about 20 pounds of stuff.  Arriving in Washington DC to meet another trainee to share a cab to our orientation hotel.  Not know what this person looked like, I looked for someone else with two years of stuff.  Off to the hotel to meet another 26 people who are sharing this experience with me. Orientation and one night in the hotel and off to Azerbaijan via Frankfort.

Arriving in Azerbaijan at night, met by current PCVs and staff and whisked off to the hotel for three days of training.  The beginning of being dazed and confused.  Dropped off at my training host family with basically no language skills, so I bring out the family photos.  Ten weeks of training; language better but very basic. Training has good and bad days, but we all get through it and then we are sent off to our sites for the next two years.  So good to feel like an adult again.

Four months with my host family in Masazir.  Move out on my own, but thankfully just down the street.  I’m welcome at home anytime.  I have washing machine privileges in addition to all the tea I can drink and occasional food.  I love sitting with Fasahat, Nunu and Nana in the kitchen.  Everyone helps with my language is continues to improve, but likely will remain pretty basic.

My primary organization, an eye clinic, is awesome.  The work is interesting and we all agree on how my skills can help.  My director and I have a lot in common; we are both single, about the same age, have daughters living in Australia and our birthdays are one day apart. 

I have a good grasp of the bus system, both local and country wide.  I have figured out Metro. I’ve gotten lost, a bit, but having always found my way in the end.  I have traveled in the country and to Georgia.  I have relationships with my local market and have a fruit and vegetable guy.  I have new friends. I’m active within Peace Corps and am participating in the World Wise School program and am communicating with a wonderful group of students in the great city of Chicago.

I have plans for 2014, which will accommodate the unexpected.  I will be a mentor to some new Peace Corps trainees, who will arrive in April.  I will see family and meet new friends.

I feel like I have my sea legs and plan on testing them often.

Yeni Illiniz Buyrum Mubarek and Yaxsi Yol

New Years isn't New Years without a cup of Starbucks (a reusable cup)

Home for the Holidays

Home for the Holidays

I’ve been in my house for just over six weeks and the holidays are now upon us.  I received a package from the States and got some decorations, so I have them up.   As you can see from one of the pictures, I don’t have “chestnuts roasting by the open fire” or “stockings hung by the chimney with care” but I do have socks drying on the peç.

Socks on pec

 

Last night, Nunu and I baked Grandma Nell’s Nursery School Cookies, while having our language class. My best knowledge of words has to do with food. They came out pretty good, even though I didn’t cream the butter and sugar.  I sent some home with Nunu and the rest I took to work today.  I did eat a few myself. 

The weather turned colder a couple of weeks ago and I’m improving my heating skills on a daily basis.  My landlord brought me soup yesterday and indicated that I should block the opening in the chimney for the big oven that my one room house is built around.  She said that I should stuff the opening with plastic bags.  So tonight on my way home I bought a roll of packing tape and started my insulation project.  My tools and supplies included, scissors, a leatherman, tape, bubble wrap, plastic bags and cardboard.  Below the finished product.  I may make some improvements over the weekend when I will move a table.  I now need to figure out how to plug the hole in the ceiling where the exhaust pipe for the peç exits the house.  I have some ideas.  I’ll let you know if they work.

When I got home about an hour an a half ago the temperature was in the mid-40’s and I’m now up to the mid-50’s.  I’m heading for the mid-60’s.  Only three more months of winter to go.  Long winter underwear and a heavy sweater works.  Also I have plenty of blankets and am toasty in bed.  The Baku area is quite windy and I think without the wind it would be easier to warm the house.  Don’t worry, in the summer I will be talking about how hot it is. 

We lost electricity last night about 7:30, so I didn’t do my dishes until tonight.  My site mate, who recently went back to the States, used to say that it was a good day when we have two out of three utilities….so yesterday was a good day.

 

Happy Holidays from Azerbaijan - Patti

Wild West

Today I woke up and snuggled under the covers for far too long.  As I was snuggling, I could hear the wind blowing.  I finally dragged myself out of bed and headed out for my walk to work.  As I stepped out of my gate and turned on the road for work I transported myself back to the westerns I used to watch in my childhood.  A dusty, mostly empty dirt road, a single figure walking in front of me with his head down and hands in his pockets, tumbleweeds blowing across the street (OK they were plastic bags but they reminded me of tumbleweeds), and a creaking gate sound along with the wind.  Leaning into the wind and I began my walk.....

Tbilisi

Peace Corps Volunteers can start taking vacation leave after we have been at our sites for three months.  I reached the three month mark at the end of September.  I decided that for my first trip I wanted to go to Tbilisi, the capitol of Georgia. Georgia borders Azerbaijan so I’m taking baby steps in my traveling. Many “older” PVCs suggested taking the night train. There are three options on the night train; an open car, a two person compartment or a four person compartment. There were four of us interested in going so the four person compartment sounded perfect.  My friends joining me on my first travels were; Kim, a Youth Development volunteer, Matt, a Community and Economic Development volunteer, and Olivia, a TEFL (an English teacher trainer).  Matt and Olivia are married.

On the train to Tbilisi, we weren’t able to get a compartment together. So Kim and I got the top bunks above two women who were co-workers and going to a conference. The older woman appeared to be the younger’s supervisor. The older woman, primarily spoke Russian, which is not uncommon.  Kim’s Azerbaijan is much better than mine, so we held a conversation in three languages with translations flying.  Getting to the top bunk was a challenge until we were shown ladders that pulled down from the walls.  The cars are pretty old but have been refurbished inside and were comfortable. The train goes pretty slowly so that the passengers don’t get jostled too much and get a good night’s sleep. The border crossing takes a bit of time but we arrived in Tbilisi mid-day ready to go.

A taxi ride to the hostel in Old Town where we met Matt’s cousin DJ. DJ is a marine stationed in Georgia. Then off to lunch.  I noshed on Kachapuri which is a bread topped, in my case, with meat and cheese. Not heart healthy but tasty none the less. After lunch we went off to explore on foot. There is a cable car that goes to the top of the hill overlooking Tbilisi where you can see the Old Fortress, Mother Georgia and get a great view.  We walked down to the hostel and sat on the roof deck overlooking the city.  More food. This time pork was on our minds and we shared bacon wrapped cheese.  I can’t describe how much most of us miss bacon.

Sunday we went on a walking tour.  Then off to the funicular to an amusement park that overlooks the city. It was overcast and damp day, but for a minimum of four people they would run the roller coaster.  I passed, but we had a group of six willing adults so on it went.  I held bags and took pictures. Another meal. Then a ride back down the hill and a stroll back to the hostel.  Thank evening we ate dinner at an Indian/Thai restaurant that as across the street from the hostel.  It has two tables and the proprietor is the host, waiter and chef.  Then off to sample Georgian wine.  We went to a bar with a KGB theme.

Monday we booked a tour of Davit Garenja. Davit Garenja is an area where there were 20 monasteries.  Now only one is functioning. Our tour started at the operating monastery and then we hiked the border of Georgia and Azerbaijan to see another.  A moderate climb in the mist to what on a clear day would be some marvelous views.  However, the inactive monastery was worth the walk.  The trail on the way down was very muddy and slick.  Of course, we were almost at the bottom when I slipped.  I was told that I was quite graceful in my fall. I wasn’t hurt but the poor driver of the car wasn’t too thrilled to have my muddy person get in his car.  We all took our shoes off and I sat on part of a 

Kachapuri “pizza” box.  The tour included a large lunch of Georgian dishes.  We were pretty tired after a long day, so took a cab to the Elvis Diner and ate burgers and milkshakes.  I have decided that I won’t get a great burger until I return home.

We had most of Tuesday to wander Tbilisi before catching the night train back to Azerbaijan.  We decided to split up.  I wanted to experience the hot sulfur baths and off I went for a private bath, scrub and massage. After this super relaxing experience, I ate lemon soup, walked along the river, crossed the Dry Bridge, saw the outdoor flower market, got a cup of coffee and headed back to the hostel to meet my traveling companions. 

We shared a compartment back to Baku, arriving mid-morning. A successful trip.  Tbilisi is beautiful and very friendly to tourists. It was a nice break with good friends.

Matti and Olivia

Roller coaster I passed on

Davit Garenja

Hot Sulfur Bath Video

Clock Tower Tbilisi

Kim at monastary

Mosaic at Church in Tbilisi

Tbilisi Flower Market

Davit Garenja Tour Group(before slip in mud)

Funicular in Tbilisi

“pizza” box.  The tour included a large lunch of Georgian dishes.  We were pretty tired after a long day, so took a cab to the Elvis Diner and ate burgers and milkshakes.  I have decided that I won’t get a great burger until I return home.

We had most of Tuesday to wander Tbilisi before catching the night train back to Azerbaijan.  We decided to split up.  I wanted to experience the hot sulfur baths and off I went for a private bath, scrub and massage. After this super relaxing experience, I ate lemon soup, walked along the river, crossed the Dry Bridge, saw the outdoor flower market, got a cup of coffee and headed back to the hostel to meet my traveling companions. 

We shared a compartment back to Baku, arriving mid-morning. A successful trip.  Tbilisi is beautiful and very friendly to tourists. It was a nice break with good friends.

Surprise

Not only was last week Gurban, but I also celebrated my first birthday in Azerbaijan. A cold/flu has been running through my family and the day before my birthday, I was feeling a little ill.  I woke up on my birthday and had a headache.  Nunu said nothing, but cooked me eggs for breakfast.  I popped some pills and headed off to work.  The headache subsided and then returned, so I packed up my bags early and headed for home.

When I got home, mom, her sister and their mother were in the kitchen cooking. It looked a little more elaborate than usual, but I just wanted to lie down.  Nunu was surprised at seeing me, but she was tutoring and I was tired.  I got up and was putzing around with my bedroom door open.  At some point I realized that my mom was outside my door acting a little strange.  I poked my head out and surprise, my closest sitemate, KJ was in the living room.  Nunu had made arrangements for her to come to my birthday dinner.  And then more relatives showed up. 

Dinner, family, friends, presents and cake.  My director also gave me a gift and a happy birthday greeting. I received many happy wishes from home.  A marvelous way to spend my birthday.  I am blessed to have two such wonder families and great friends.

Not getting older, just getting better!

Cake made by neighbor

Family and friends

KJ and me (I barely blew all the candles out)

Nana, my mom, KJ, me, Nunu, Mamet and my aunt (I was trying to go for the sexy long hair look and failed)