Quba visit

As usual, I'm running about a week behind with my posts and the actual event.  Last weekend I took my first solo trip out to a rayon (region).  My trip was a short distance, 180km a 2 1/2 hour bus ride from the Baku Avtovagzal (bus station)  The Avtovagzal is designed to look like the Titanic. Local buses and some marshruks to the regions depart from the lower level. The "bigger" buses depart from the upper level. There is also a two store outlet mall at the avtovagzal.  Below is a picture of the part of the upper level with the lower level in the background.  The bus station is incredibly busy with local buses departing every couple of minutes.

 My bus to Quba was one of the smaller buses, with "jump" seats in the aisle.  There is a bench seat in the back and two seats up with the driver.  These are primarily for men only and should be rejected by women. The bus driver will try to rearrange the seats so that women are not uncomfortable. The rest of the bus is two seats and one seat.  Once they are filled up, the aisle seats are filled from back to front.  On the way to Quba, I got the last regular seat, however it was over the wheel well and I sat for the entire trip with my bag on my lap and my knees towards my chest.  Most uncomfortable, especially since the padding on the seats is not exactly cushy.

 

The trip to Quba follows the coast north for the first part and then for the last hour heads west towards the mountains.  Quba is known for apples and the region is much greener and a little cooler than Baku.

 

I stayed with another PCV who works with a carpet factory that is all women (a token male, who is related and the driver). There are two rooms with looms and I was able to see women making carpets.  It is incredibly labor intensive, but beautiful to watch.  The factory primarily makes carpets to order. The director sits down with clients to discuss the type, color and design of the carpet. The designs are traditional as part of the mission of the factory is to preserve the designs.The design dictates the sizes that are possible.  Also, while you may order specific colors; the carpet may change as it reveals itself. We had tea in the factory's garden before moving on to our next destination, another PCV's home.

 

Hospitality is incredible in Azerbaijan.  When we arrived and had settled in for the visit, we were served tea and sweets.  Then dinner and capped the visit off with dondurma (ice cream). Ice cream is difficult to find outside the warmer months, so the PCVs look forward to when ice cream becomes available as an end of the cold.  During our visit a couple, who were relatives, stopped by for shots.  Yes, I mean injections.  Like Americans pop pills, the preferred method of delivery of medication appears to be shots.  So, just after tea and before the table was cleared, out came the stuff to get the three injections prepared. Thank goodness they were delivered in a bedroom and we didn't have to watch.  This is all treated with a casual routine that is very matter-of-fact, which makes is all the more interesting.  I hope this doesn't catch on in the states.

 

The next day, we woke up and I got to go to Qirmizi Qesebe the "big red village"  It is reached by a pedestrian bridge(see below)  and is across a river from Quba.  In guide books it is described as the only all-Jewish town outside of Israel and some believe that the inhabitants are direct descendants of one of the "lost tribes".

 

After walking through the village, I grabbed my bags and started my journey back home.  This time, I got a more comfortable seat.  Also the bus was newer and air conditioned.  I really scored. After letting the driver know that I wanted to get off before the Avtovagzel, with help from my fellow passengers. I got off and walked the fifteen minutes home.  The buses will pretty much stop anywhere on their routes, including the side of the freeway.  This is a little odd, but incredibly helpful.

A street in the red village.  Looks very similar to those in Quba, but many have the Star of David instead of the Crescent Star. 

Next weekend, a trip to Mingachevir where there is a large reservoir. I've been told to bring my swimsuit.  This is a longer trip, but I will have company.

Patti

P.S. Azerbaijan words are not necessarily spelled correctly.  There are several letters that I should insert as symbols, but I'm a little lazy.



A typical day - part 2

I described a typical day during training and I want to post a new Daily Activity Schedule (DAS) as a volunteer.  I plan on posting this “typical day” format a few more times during my Peace Corps adventure.  In part, for me to review and see how it changes over the course of 27 months.  I have been a volunteer for about 4 weeks and have been at my site for just about 3 weeks. While I have a work schedule – I work from 9:30 – 4:00, four days a week at one organization.  As I get more comfortable and my language improves, I will expand my service. There is a lot less structure to my week.

My Monday thru Thursday DAS is as follows:

7:30-8:00 -wake up, get ready for the day, make and eat breakfast

8:45 – gather my bag, lunch and head out to work.  It is a 30 minute walk.  Right now the temperature averages in the 80-90’s so it is a toasty walk.

9:15 – arrive at work and say Salam

9:15-1:00 – talk with my counterpart and other staff members.  Look at information/data. Talk with the PCV that am overlapping with until October. Research. Study language.

1:00 – 1:30 lunch

1:30 – 4:00 more work

4:00 – 4:45 walk home.  I’m a little slower at night and often stop in at a store on my way home. I haven’t kicked my diet coke habit and indulge in one a day, in addition to my cups of tea.

On Fridays, I have a two hour tutoring session with my Azerbaijan language teacher.  She is due to move closer to my site in a couple of months and then I should have tutoring in person.  I need to bring my language skills up to intermediate – mid.  They are progressing.

Saturdays I've been exploring and Sundays I rest.

I have gone into Baku four times by myself and have had little adventures each time.  I’m getting a handle on the buses.  There doesn’t appear to be published schedules or routes.  I just ask people who know, including PCVs, my host family and co-workers.  The buses run often, but I need to factor in traffic and construction to get places on time. It also helps if I remember to bring my map.  Directions include behind the mosque near the Turkish Embassy, so time needs to be factored in for the preciseness of the directions.  I now feel comfortable getting to the Peace Corps office, the office by the mosque, a couple of universities and the old city. Right now I’m focusing on the bus system and next I’ll tackle metro. But since you can’t see landmarks in a subway tunnel, I’m staying above ground for now. 

Typical food has not changed much but the timing and serving has. Meals are served family style in the kitchen. I have kitchen privileges and that makes a world of difference.  Though grilled cheese is my only kitchen adventure to date.  I am, however, watching and assisting in the kitchen.

·         Breakfast

o   Yogurt & muesli

o   Eggs

o   Tea

·         Lunch

o   Leftovers – my office has a microwave (Yipee!!)

·         Dinner – lots of variety

o   Bread

o   Soup – not every dinner but often (I really like lentils)

o   Main dish

§  Dolma (grape leaf, cabbage leaf, tomato, eggplant, pepper)

§  Plov (rice dish – supposedly 140+ varieties)

§  Potatoes

§  Potato cutlet (hash browns with greens)

§  Eggplant – fried, steamed, with other stuff

§  Bulger and other grains

§  Salad – combination of cucumber, tomato, onion, pepper and greens

§  Usually some sort of meat (typically beef or chicken) in combination with one or more of the above

I’ve also had a couple of yogurt drinks, which are good in small quantities.

Lots and lots of tea.  Sometimes there is a light meal when I get home from work and then another meal between 8:00 and 9:00.

I’m eating small meals, I think primarily because it is so hot.  The last time I weighed myself, I had lost 15 pounds. I’m looking pretty good.

My family lives on a small salt lake.  The house is on a rise, so we get a nice breeze that really helps with the heat.  There is a wonderful garden, with fruits and vegetables and about 80 chickens.  Only 40 chickens belong to my immediate family, the other half belong to my host father's brother who lives next door. We are currently enjoying cucumber, greens and the tomatoes are starting to come in season.

 

Salam

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